Raised Radials vs Ground Radials: Height Wins on 15, 17 and 20 Meters

What actually changes, what doesn’t, and why “there’s hardly any difference” is misleading

In vertical-antenna discussions, one line gets repeated a lot:

“A ground-mounted vertical with lots of radials is basically the same as an elevated-radial vertical.”

That statement can be true in carefully controlled cases. But it’s often repeated in a way that hides two different effects:

1. Counterpoise efficiency (ground loss) ... elevating the radials can reduce near-field ground loss with far fewer wires.
2. Elevation pattern (DX angles) ... raising the feedpoint and radiating current higher above lossy ground can change the low-angle pattern, especially on 15/17/20 m where “a few meters” is a meaningful fraction of a wavelength.

At a glance

• Few on-ground radials vs. tuned elevated radials ... elevated often wins because more return current stays out of lossy soil.
• Dense on-ground radial field vs. well-built elevated system ... efficiency can get surprisingly close, sometimes close enough that other factors dominate.
• Raised base / roof mount ... that’s not just “elevated radials” ... it also changes the radiation geometry and can improve low-angle energy.

The two common builds people compare (and why it’s not apples-to-apples)

A) Ground-mounted ¼-wave vertical (classic lawn radial field)

• Radiator: about ¼-wave
• Radials: 16–120+ wires on/near the surface (often not tuned)
• Feedpoint: at ground level

B) Elevated “ground-plane” vertical (tuned radials in the air)

• Radiator: about ¼-wave
• Radials: typically 4 (or more) elevated, resonant, symmetric radials (often sloped to bring feedpoint impedance closer to 50 Ω)
• Feedpoint: elevated (sometimes 1–2 m ... sometimes much higher)

Why this comparison gets messy: many “elevated radial” installs also raise the base (and therefore the radiating current) above ground. If you see a DX improvement, you can’t automatically credit the radials alone.

What changes when you raise radials (and what doesn’t)

1) What changes: near-field ground loss (efficiency)

Verticals lose power mainly because return current flows through lossy soil near the feedpoint. A dense radial field helps by providing a lower-loss path in copper.

Elevated radials help more aggressively because the return currents are largely confined to the elevated conductors rather than the earth immediately under the feedpoint. That’s the core reason a small number of tuned elevated radials can compete with (or beat) a modest on-ground radial system.

2) What changes: how many radials you need (but with a catch)

Elevated systems trade wire quantity for precision:

• On-ground radials: forgiving ... can be non-resonant ... “messy” can still work well when you have many wires.
• Elevated radials: fewer wires, but they must be symmetrical, properly tuned (or intentionally tuned as a coupled system), and kept away from nearby conductors.

In real installations, many builders find that more than four elevated radials (for example 8–12) produces a more robust, less finicky system around gutters, fences, balconies, towers, or roofs.

3) What doesn’t change (by itself): “height pattern magic”

Simply moving the radials into the air does not automatically raise the radiating current. If the base of the vertical is still at ground level, your center of radiation is still low. You may gain efficiency (less ground loss), but you may not get the same low-angle pattern change you’d see from lifting the whole antenna higher.

What changes when you raise the feedpoint (and why DX can improve)

This is the part that often gets bundled into “elevated radials” without being named:

• A ground-mounted quarter-wave vertical has a very low center of radiation.
• Real ground is lossy ... and near the surface it can suppress the lowest elevation angles more than many people expect.
• If you lift the entire radiator/counterpoise system (roof mount, raised base, etc.), you change the geometry and can materially alter the elevation pattern ... often improving energy at DX-useful angles.

Bottom line: “Radials in the air” primarily targets loss. “Radiator higher above ground” primarily targets pattern. Many strong DX installs do both at once ... which is why they can feel like “DX magic.”

Common source of confusion: feedline common-mode current

A lot of “my vertical changed everything” stories are actually: “my feedline radiated, and my pattern changed.”

If the coax shield is carrying common-mode current, you can see:

• SWR that changes with feedline length
• Unexpected pattern distortion
• RFI in the shack (and sometimes “mystery gain” in one direction)

Practical takeaway: whether your radials are on the ground or elevated, use a proper choke/current balun at the feedpoint so the antenna you model is the antenna you actually built.

A fair way to compare (so you don’t “prove” the wrong thing)

If you want numbers you can defend, keep comparisons controlled:

Comparison 1: Counterpoise type only

• Keep base height constant
• Change only the ground system (dense on-ground field vs. tuned elevated fan)
• Choke the feedline the same way in both cases

Comparison 2: Height only

• Keep counterpoise type constant
• Raise only the base/feedpoint height
• Watch what happens to low angles

When people say “there’s hardly any difference,” they’re often comparing a best-case radial field against a compromised elevated install ... or comparing two antennas where multiple variables changed at once.

Practical guidance for 15/17/20 m

Quarter-wave starting lengths (then trim)

• 20 m (around 14.1 MHz): about 5.3 m
• 17 m (around 18.1 MHz): about 4.1 m
• 15 m (around 21.2 MHz): about 3.5 m

(Start long and trim. Element diameter, end effects, nearby objects, and radial coupling all shift final resonance.)

If you have space for a serious lawn field

• Use as many on-ground radials as you can (dozens are great ... 60–100+ is hard to argue with).
• They don’t need to be resonant ... consistency and coverage matter more than perfection.
• Expect diminishing returns as you add more radials ... the first couple dozen usually deliver the biggest jump.

If you don’t have space (or want “less wire, more discipline”)

• Use elevated radials and treat them like part of the antenna, not “just ground.”
• Keep them symmetrical and clear of metal (gutters, rails, fencing, towers, siding, etc.).
• Four can work extremely well when the environment is clean ... 8–12 often behaves better in real yards and rooftops.

If DX is the goal

• Prioritize efficiency (good counterpoise) and height (raise radiating current where practical).
• A roof mount or raised base can improve low-angle performance ... but only if the counterpoise and feedline are controlled.
• Always choke the feedline at the feedpoint.

Conclusion: a more honest DX claim you can defend

• Modest on-ground system vs. tuned elevated radials: elevated can be several dB stronger because it avoids near-field ground loss.
• Dense on-ground field vs. well-built elevated system: the efficiency difference can shrink dramatically.
• Raised base / roof mount: you’re changing height and pattern in addition to counterpoise type ... often a separate (and real) DX advantage.

If your goal is strong DX on 15/17/20, the winning recipe is simple:

• Use a proper counterpoise (many on-ground radials or a disciplined elevated radial fan)
• Get the radiating current higher and cleaner where practical
• Choke the feedline so your system behaves like an antenna ... not a coax-plus-antenna hybrid

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