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Electronics & Antennas for Ham Radio

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Balcony-Mounted Verticals: Radial Layout Makes or Breaks Performance

Related reading:
Short Radials and the Myth: Misreading Rudy Severns’ Work
IronWave6 Technical Overview

Many operators mount verticals like our IronWave6 multiband vertical on balconies when no garden space is available. This can work surprisingly well — but only if the radials are arranged sensibly.

Flat Radials Work Better Than “Up and Down” Wires

The golden rule: lay out your radials flat along the balcony floor or railing. Even if you must zig-zag them, fold them back, or snake them around the balcony, they provide a far better ground reference than wires draped upward over the fence or dangling straight down.

Vertical dangling wires act more like parasitic elements than ground radials. They couple strongly to the radiator, distort the impedance, and can make SWR unstable.

SWR and Efficiency Considerations

Compared to a ground-mounted IronWave6 with 16–32 short radials:

  • Flat balcony radials — more predictable SWR dips, better efficiency, and manageable tuner use.
  • Up/down dangling radials — erratic impedance, tuner struggling, and much poorer efficiency on 40 m and 30 m.
  • Metal balcony structures — concrete and steel can detune the system, but a decent radial “mat” helps stabilize it.

Practical Tips for Balcony Radials

  • Use as many short wires as possible, laid flat in zig-zag patterns.
  • Keep them roughly the same length (3–5 m each is fine).
  • Avoid draping wires upward over the railing.
  • Install a good 1:1 choke at the feedpoint to stop the coax from becoming the “missing radial.”

Keep the Antenna Away from the Building (Even If It Means No Front Radials)

The farther the radiator is from walls, rebar, and balcony mass, the cleaner the impedance and pattern. If space is tight, it’s often better to skip “front” radials on the building side and place all radials outward along the balcony edge rather than hugging the wall.

  • Target clearances (radiator-to-wall/ceiling/railing):
    • Ideal: ≥ 0.1 λ (e.g., 2.0 m on 20 m band; 4.0 m on 40 m — rarely possible on balconies).
    • Good: ~ 0.05 λ (about 1.0 m on 20 m; ~2.0 m on 40 m).
    • Minimum practical: 0.5–0.7 m on 20–10 m bands; on 40 m, maximize whatever you can get.
  • Prioritize outward placement: mount the vertical as far toward the balcony’s outer edge as safely possible; concentrate radials outward (U‑shape or fan) rather than along the wall.
  • Ceiling overhangs: keep the top section ≥ 0.5–1.0 m from overhead concrete/metal; more is better.
  • If you must choose: choose distance from the wall over symmetry. A slightly asymmetric radial field that’s farther from the building usually performs better than a symmetric one tight to the wall.

Rule of thumb: for 20 m, aim for ~1 m clearance; for 17–10 m, ~0.6–0.8 m works; for 40 m, maximize distance and accept additional tuner use.

Mini-FAQ

  • Is zig-zagging radials OK? — Yes, flat zig-zag radials are far better than vertical dangling wires.
  • Can I only use 4–6 radials? — Yes, but more is better. Start with 6–8 flat wires and expand if possible.
  • Do I still need a choke? — Absolutely. On balconies, common-mode currents are worse than on ground setups.
  • Will SWR be as good as ground-mounted? — Not quite. Expect more tuner use, but performance can be decent with a good flat radial field.
  • Should I avoid front radials near the wall? — Yes, if they force the system close to the building. Place radials outward instead.

Interested in more technical content? Subscribe to our updates for deep-dive RF articles and lab notes.

Questions or experiences to share? Contact RF.Guru — we’re happy to help you get the most out of your balcony setup.

Written by Joeri Van Dooren, ON6URE — RF engineer, antenna designer, and founder of RF.Guru, specializing in high-performance HF/VHF antennas and RF components.

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